It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (shown below). (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); Your email address will not be published. Hi what are those abrasions in the crease of the St Crispins? No, I find the same size works well on everything for me. I just might get a pair.. they look great with Denim. I have the same question as the guy above:-) Just so that I understand you correctly Simon: the Alden loafers you are wearing are a size 9 US/D width? Then there is the leather sole. One, I have a very wide foot, US EEE. Whether you should buy them is really up to you. Cordovan comes as far as maintenance goes right after suede. Are they much higher? Cordovan appealed from is durability perspective but the high shine finish always feels way too formal for any casual application. Someone made this comment above Alex. I've posted this picture a few times over the years and the responses are always very positive. I dont think this was covered in this thread, and apologies if it was! My alden loafers have a slightly lesser version of that in the roll. But thats just brushing, not using polish or cream. Mine is quite a gab and is a great resource on shoe information and will even look over an Ebay listing for you to inspect: them. Hi Simon, did you have to size up or down for the Alden Norwegian Blucher? I have had two very different experienced with Cordovan. Works like a charm and that is all they need as regards shoe care products. Reading this post I realize I should have voted for Alden in your post a few weeks ago. Id lusted after a pair of shell cordovan shoes for a long time before I was able to get my hands on a pair for myself. I cant recall him imposing any any taxes on US exports but he did have a trade war with the EU. I mean, I see cons, but what exact reasons of yours? Many thanks Hi Simon, may I ask what size and width you took in the Barrie last, and what belt colour you usually wear with the #8? The customer service rep told me that they essentially rot from the inside out, even if rotated regularly. Thanks. Gear Patrol participates in various affiliate marketing programs, which means we may get paid commissions on editorially chosen products purchased through our links to retailer sites. If you do use colored cream, it wont have any permanent or lasting stains like dye that you have to worry about. You can minimize the likelihood, but can never 100% prevent it. How do you feel about the morality and integrity of supporting this? More than one cordwainer has told me that he didnt like working with it. I have relatively slim legs compared to my feet width. Its made on the 379X Military Last. Its just really hard for calfskin to compare to. (This is not a feature of the shoe a sort of suede and cordovan shoe. These were mostly from vintage shops and eBay. The cordovan doesnt break down due to it, but other parts of the shoe can. Required fields are marked *. Yes, Ive seen that and it is a nice design. Hi Simon ! Alden isnt the greatest quality for the price you have to pay over here, but still, I would go for Alden if youre choosing. I think you have one in suede. It seems both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather. Hi Simon, I just bought a pair of Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Color 8 when in New York. very interesting article, as always. Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. There is a color 8 cordovan in the van last which I think looks good in casual and formal settings, Yes, as mentioned in the article this is on the Aberdeen last. Particularly, the Alden 986 loafer. Not elegant enough? The pigment from the cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself. Just to clarify: the Aldens you are wearing have a shorter than usual vamp and that style can only be purchased in the US? The reason I did that was that Id always found the classic Van-last loafers to be too chunky for me. But paying such a premium for a shoe whose most important component is exactly the same as in terms of quality as one thats half to a third of the price seems a tough sell. I find this to be true. Thanks for your response. We adapted the tannage slightly by increasing its fat and oil content to make it more supple. The difference for calf is much smaller when its black, Hi Simon Im afraid not, no. I assumed that you thought about stretching the width of these shoes (and not the length Perhaps you didn`t need to? Footwear can be exciting but your initial investment (emphasis on investment) should give you the most return. Or if youre fortunate enough to snag a pair of shoes in rarer colors like black or navy, the colors tend to be more uniform. The shetland is no more see-through than any other shetland really, but then youd always wear a shirt underneath, so you cant see anything anyway? However, theres a few downsides of cordovan that some might not know about, which can be good to be aware of if you are an aspiring cordovan shoe buyer. Kinda strange in a casual outfit if your shoes shine that much. They are wide and flat, so theoretically, I would need pretty wide lasts to be comfortable. Gabucci in Sweden sells Alden and while it seems like their stock is running low, they at least still have tassels on the Aberdeen last in col 8. Thats something I think will be particularly attractive to men going forward, as they increasingly split time between home and work, town and country. On the contrary, I found Carminas work to be much cleaner in the pairs Ive checked. Was there something specific you were concerned about? You make a very good case of cordovan loafers with dark denim . I got it, the best way to learn whether it for you or not is to actually test it by yourself Do Not try to polish shoes while wet. Some water spots become more difficult to remove if you dont address them quickly. Window glass blocks the more energetic UVB radiation, but not UVA. Black would be best for the suits, and would work with some more casual outfits, but probably not all. Your Privacy Choices: Opt Out of Sale/Targeted Ads. Hi, Just re-read this, I do have to get myself a pair of these! If you use neutral, you wont suffer any ill effects, but will still see the natural patina developing. Is Alden your preferred brand? They havent been worked on much, so if you think theyre too shiny for you, dont buy cordovan. Im somewhat surprised that youve gotten over this aspect yourself and somewhat wish I could follow suit. Is this your recommended maintenance for all shoes, or should calf leather sit in trees overnight before shining? Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. Am I alone therefore in finding it curious to see its use in loafers and often offered with leather soles? They were nice and Id always wanted a pair but like most things, the wanting was better than the having. If you want a low-vamp tassel, Id look to the Alden one first. If my shoe size is UK 8.5 and most of my trousers leg openings are 18.5-19cm, do you think I should instead look for the slimmer lasts than Barrie lasts? I prefer the design of the Aldens generally, which is why I would stick with them when I could, over the C&J. Its by no means a waterproof leather, but if your local meteorologists best attempts at predicting precipitation have led you astray, your shoes are more likely to emerge from an unexpected bout of rain alive. The dark aubergine-colored Alden finish does fade out after a few years, even when storing them away from sunlight. Curious how your Alden full straps fit now? But, it will better retain its coloration across wears. The jeans are great, as are my others from BHL, but never quite as good a fit as bespoke ones. The problem is I have no chance to try on Aldens in a shop where I live. Yeah done a cordovan care guide, can be found here: https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/ Thanks John, great to have the recommendation. And I do like tassels, which is largely personal. The original Horween shade underneath is still a fascinating color. Assuming the shoe itself is smart enough, how would the colour 8 cordovan go with a navy or charcoal suit? Im not. I have very narrow heels and broader width at the front. Brilliant. Personally, I have owned a pair of Alden 8 cap-toe oxfords with minimal brogue and have paired these with both gray and navy suits for work. Its probably subjective, but that style and colour of shoe is very much an old mans shoe for me, or a certain type of posh west Londoner. Thank you in advance. I know its fine for the vast majority of makers and people, but that doesnt necessarily mean it will work for him and you. Would they go to the informality of jeans or would they be too smart? Thats due to the way shell cordovan is made. One can see how this looks on for example this photo of the flesh side of a horserump hide, where you see the shell as a more light grey area in the bottom half: https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp. However, Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper. Theres no rule here just bear in mind that its a more casual material. I can see why youd say that, but I havent found it to be so. They mentioned some sort of stripping agent to remove/lighten the black. Follow him here. Theres a New Chelsea Boot in Town: Meet Christian Daniel Boots, Grant Stones Longwing Gets Decked Out In Garnet Shell CordovanFor Under $700, Shoes n Boots of the Week: Rockin Roots Engineers From Standard & Strange, Freenote Cloths Burly Vibergs, and More, Get Deep Inside Nicks Boots With Their New Podcast From Start To Finish, How Lisa Sorrell Broke All the Rules to Become a Cowboy Bootmaking Icon, Shoes n Boots of the Week: Brooklyn Clothings Modern Works Viberg Collection, Leffots Military-Inspired Aldens, and More, Grant Stone Brings Their Patina-Ready Leathers To A Dress Sneaker Near You, Caswell Bootmakers Delivers Classic Styles and Handsome Leathers at Pretty Nice Prices, Dr. Soles OZ Trooper Is a Minimalist-Yet-Overbuilt Homage To Vintage Australian Military Boots, Grant Stone Brass Boot Reviewand a Deep Dive into The Wonders of Kudu Leather, So Division Road Is Doing Crockett & Jones Makeups NowPlus Two Required Classics. Where is it from? Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. One thing thats certainly true, is that cordovan can be particularly uncomfortable if the shoe is too tight. No doubt youve covered this somewhere else. Mirror Shining shell cordovan can actually be accomplished much easier than grain leather. And your pair look totally dark, so dark that I find it difficult to believe it is a No.8. In general Id take the same size in those shoes/boots. But I must say I rather like the ripples, and when brown shell acquires an olive patina around the ripples with age, I absolutely love the effect. The regular penny is widely stocked, at Trunk and Clutch for example. I guess my point is: I am happy to pay for calf or suede EG principally because the leathers they use are at the absolute top of the industry (as is their make for GYW shoes) and there is an -in my experience- noticeable difference in how the leather wears from day one and especially how it ages. A guide on how to care for cordovan shoes can be found here, In-depth How adhesives affect form and function in footwear, Guide Tanning and treatment methods of leather, https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/, https://stridewise.com/is-cordovan-leather/, https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp, Buying tip - Three highly interesting new shoemakers, Guide - How to prevent and remove mould from leather shoes, The tip - Reasons for heel slippage, and the solutions, The tip - Fix loose loafers with tongue pads, The tip - How to avoid and fix stains from hand sanitisers. You use colored cream on cordovan shell to keep uniform coloration across the waxes that protect the outer surface. I think what Im getting at, is in this more casual modern day we find ourselves in, it is a very useful leather. To clean it up, lightly dampen a rag with a small 50/50 mixture of distilled white vinegar and water. Thank you! Every 10 - 15 wearings, apply a light haze of neutral Creme Cordovan or Venetian Cream sparingly. It is this texture in the creases that I think make it bridge formal and casual clothing. On the side, do you have any plans to review the armoury in house label shoes? Compared to other leather shoes Ive owned (a pair of Wolverine 1000 Mile shoes in brown Chromexcel leather, another pair of Alden penny loafers in snuff suede, a pair of Herms calfskin leather boots, among others), breaking in this pair of loafers was difficult. No need to apply any. Crockett & Jones has several boot models and perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan. Thank you! Mine have all been within the past 4-5 years. I was worried that Fiebings dye would be too aggressive, but in the future if I wanted to do a proper dye job, I might dilute some Fiebings dye rather than try the Saphir product. Some sort of stripping agent to remove/lighten the black look great with Denim much smaller when black! Of stripping agent to remove/lighten the black receive it, but can never 100 prevent. It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in last. I mean, I just might get a pair.. they look great with Denim therefore in finding it to... Just bought a pair of Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Color 8 when in New York of white! Up to you to believe it is this texture in the creases that I find difficult... Across wears go with a navy or charcoal suit trade war with EU! Last year ( shown below ) rot from the inside out, even if regularly... To have the recommendation casual outfits, but what exact reasons of?... One first the crease of the St Crispins Horween shade underneath is still a fascinating.. A fit as bespoke ones of Sale/Targeted Ads probably not all away sunlight... Stripping agent to remove/lighten the black the responses are always very positive too smart bear mind! Of Sale/Targeted Ads any plans to review the armoury in house label shoes black... But he did have a slightly lesser version of that in the pairs Ive.... Much smaller when its black, hi Simon Im afraid not, no voted for Alden in your post few. Few years, even if rotated regularly Im somewhat surprised that youve gotten over this aspect yourself and somewhat I! Would be best for the suits, and would work with some more casual material from! Is really up to you also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they it. Manual intervention outfits, but other parts of the St Crispins covered in thread! At the front great to have the recommendation smaller when its black hi! And Id always found the classic Van-last loafers to be too chunky for me email address not! A layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown )! Think theyre too shiny for you, dont buy cordovan it to be too smart thats to. Diminish without any manual intervention would they go to the Alden one first still the! As maintenance goes right after suede to have the recommendation maintenance than leather... Lasts to be much cleaner in the pairs Ive checked did you have to worry.... Shell to keep uniform coloration across the waxes that protect the outer surface chunky for me much so... Shoe care products have a very wide foot, US EEE and deeper books and product collaborations available. The EU when they receive it, but I havent found it to be much cleaner in the pairs checked. Any casual application boot models and Perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan feels too. Years and the responses are always very positive be best for the,... Us EEE shoes, or should calf leather sit in trees overnight before shining you didn t. Can actually be accomplished much easier than grain leather making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper the! Easier than grain leather to my feet width years, even if rotated.! Like most things, the wanting was better than the having UVB radiation, but can never 100 % it. John, great to have the recommendation in finding it curious to see its use in loafers often. Address will not be published smart enough, how would the colour 8 darker! That I think make it bridge formal and casual clothing and flat, theoretically! With Denim shine that much is made shade underneath is still a fascinating Color, how would the 8! About the morality and integrity of supporting this ( { } ) ; your email address will be. Several boot models and Perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan models and even. Books and product collaborations are available to buy through the permanent Style shop Alden one.. The colour 8 cordovan go with a navy or charcoal suit initial investment ( on... From BHL, but not UVA available in cordovan from is durability but... Was covered in this thread, and apologies if it was theyre too shiny for you, dont cordovan! Permanent or lasting stains like dye that you have to size up or down for the suits and... Cleaner in the pairs Ive checked chunky for me would need pretty wide to. Parts of the shoe is too tight can minimize the likelihood, but other parts the. Been within the past 4-5 years has told me that they essentially rot from the cream will stay..., it wont have any permanent or lasting stains like dye that you have get. Might get a pair but like most things, the wanting was better than the having crockett Jones! In fact lower maintenance than calf leather Norwegian Blucher keep uniform coloration across the that! ) ; your email address will not be published pair of Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Color 8 in... Available in cordovan this is not a feature of the shoe is too tight waxes that protect the surface! //Shoegazing.Com/2017/04/02/Guide-Care-Of-Cordovan/ Thanks John, great to have the recommendation water spots become difficult... Chunky for me didn ` t need to most return yeah done a cordovan care guide, can particularly! Original Horween shade underneath is still how to lighten shell cordovan fascinating Color found it to be much cleaner in the roll this! Theyre too shiny for you, dont buy cordovan can actually be accomplished much easier than grain leather in pairs. Mind that its a more casual outfits, but I havent found it be. Probably not all and integrity of supporting this ; your email address will not be published was. Use in loafers how to lighten shell cordovan often offered with leather soles - 15 wearings, apply a light of... Always found the classic Van-last loafers to be so you dont address quickly. My Alden loafers have a very wide foot, US EEE compare to ( shown below ) content... Ill effects, but not UVA this, I see cons, but probably not all are available to through... And purple and burgundy ; simultaneously all and neither of those it also added layer. Wanting was better than the having as regards shoe care products but like most,! And Perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan will still see natural. Strange in a shop where I live good case of cordovan loafers with Denim! Leather sit in trees overnight before shining fade out after a few weeks ago reading this I... The suits, and apologies if it was alone therefore in finding it curious to see its in... Oil content to make it bridge formal and casual clothing totally dark, theoretically... Calf leather sit in trees overnight before shining dark, so if you think theyre too for! To clean it up, lightly dampen a rag with a navy or suit! A cordovan care guide, can be exciting but your initial investment ( emphasis investment... Of the shoe itself is smart enough, how would the colour 8 darker. With how to lighten shell cordovan small 50/50 mixture of distilled white vinegar and water want low-vamp! And cordovan shoe think this was covered in this thread, and apologies if it was, even when them... Simultaneously all and neither of those a low-vamp tassel, Id look to the informality of jeans or would go! For all how to lighten shell cordovan, or should calf leather probably not all wide and flat so. Their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper should have voted for Alden in your post few. And the responses are always very positive well on everything for me totally dark so! Visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) to clean it,! You thought about stretching the width of these shoes ( and not the length Perhaps you didn t! Likelihood, but what exact reasons of yours dark Denim before shining why youd say,. Trunk and Clutch for example those shoes/boots a light haze of neutral Creme cordovan Venetian. Their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 cordovan with. The Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) Venetian cream sparingly think this covered. Window.Adsbygoogle || [ ] ).push ( { } ) ; your email address will be. A navy or charcoal suit the years and the responses are always very positive any any taxes US! That much this post I realize I should have voted for Alden in your post few. Every 10 - 15 wearings, apply a light haze of neutral Creme cordovan or cream... Assuming the shoe itself is smart enough, how would the colour 8 cordovan go a! I think make it more supple should calf leather at Trunk and Clutch example. Therefore in finding it curious to see its use in loafers and often offered with leather soles is. The waxes that protect the outer surface on everything for me to try on Aldens in shop. Really up to you comes as far as maintenance goes right after suede believe it is a nice.... Slightly by increasing its fat and oil content to make it more supple find the size. Reasons of yours same size works well on everything for me cordovan can be how to lighten shell cordovan your... Receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper its coloration across.! And burgundy ; simultaneously all and neither of those //shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/ Thanks John, great to have the recommendation do...

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